All countries have their natural
treasures and beautiful, special places in which to seek out and enjoy
them. Spain is no exception but to an extent unusual among western European
countries. Most of the country, towns and cities included, offers the naturalist
plenty of interest and it is the barren, spoilt corners that are the exception.
There are of course threats aplenty to the continued survival of wild Spain
from all the usual sources; intensification of agriculture, pesticide application,
deforestation, industrialisation, pollution….. the list continues. Still,
there is an enormous groundswell of interest in Spanish wildlife, among
Spaniards and visitors, which augurs well for the future and there are
plenty of reasons to be optimistic.
Birds are a favourite element in any national wildlife inventory. Depend
on it, if the bird community is varied and abundant, not too much is wrong
with a place and there will be plenty of other less obvious animals to
find as well, all supported by a healthy plant community. Birds are very
obvious in Spain, not least because many of them are very big. You would
have to be blind indeed to miss the hefty nests of the White Storks, atop
every church and significant edifice in many of the southern and western
towns. Flocks of startlingly white Cattle Egrets accompany the cows everywhere.
Then there are the big brown birds; eagles, kites, hawks, buzzards and
vultures are simply unmissable over large tracts of the countryside. The
Griffon Vultures in particular, with their “flying plank” silhouette, dominate
many a gorge and ridge-top. The smaller birds demand notice on account
of their abundance. Fences and roadside wires offer a cornucopia of variety
in season. A short drive through the countryside just about anywhere is
likely to provide a succession of Bee-eaters, Woodchat Shrikes, Barn and
Red-rumped Swallows, Corn Buntings, Stonechats, Goldfinches and many others,
all making good use of man-made perches.
All this may make it seem that one part of Spain is, ornithologically-speaking,
much the same as another. This is very far from being the case. Spain is
a land of varied and contrasting terrain, including not only two climatic
zones, the northern temperate zone and the Mediterranean zone, but also
an important marine influence. Habitats range from snow fields and alpine
moorland, through evergreen and deciduous forests, to vast areas of steppe-like
grasslands, to rivers, lakes and mountains and even a desert. Man-modified
habitats are most significant too, especially the croplands and pastures
and the managed woodlands; the western corkwoods and holm oak woods, but
also the salt pans, the villages, towns and cities and the reservoirs.
All have their characteristic birds.
For many, Spain means a seaside holiday and they are satisfied with
the dubious charms of Torremolinos or Benidorm. This is a pity, since the
country has so much better to offer, but the coasts do have plenty to interest
the birder.
Try the northern coast, especially the headlands for seabird watching
and the numerous tidal inlets for waders. Here there is seabird migration
on a grand scale, especially of Gannets, shearwaters, gulls, terns, skuas
and auks. Sabine’s Gulls are a regular feature during the autumn. The north
coast is also well known for the number of vagrant North American waders
which turn up every year. The southern Atlantic coast, running east from
the Algarve, is also of great interest to seabirders and it offers additionally
the major estuaries and reserves of the Odiel and Guadalquivir, the latter
including of course the Coto Doñana National Park.
The Mediterranean coast is mainly low-lying and sandy but it is good
for seabirds too, especially in winter and at migration time. The enormous
delta of the river Ebro, on the Catalan coast, is a must-see site, with
its hordes of waterfowl and waders and its wonderful colonies of herons,
gulls and terns. A key species here is the attractive Audouin’s Gull, a
recent colonist which now breeds in thousands before migrating westwards
to winter on Atlantic shores of the southern coast and northwest Africa.
The temperate lands of Asturias, Cantabria and the Pyrenees are very
different from most people’s idea of Spain. The coast is reminiscent of
Cornwall or Devon, often damp and drizzly and with gorse-covered heathland
and rocky headlands. Inland, cool forests lead up to magnificent mountains,
as in the Picos de Europa and the Pyrenees themselves. The birds here are
continental in flavour and include many which are absent further south.
Spanish birders come here to seek the Goldcrest and the Northern Treecreeper,
for example. Everyone looks for the Capercaillie, the special woodpeckers;
Black, Middle-spotted and White-backed, the Wallcreepers, the Alpine Choughs,
Alpine Accentors, Water Pipits and Snow Finches and, of course, the Lammergeyers.
These last are slowly increasing in their Pyrenean refuges and there are
signs of some western spread into Cantabria. Seeing this magnificent, immense
bird, would be a highlight of any birder’s trip to northern Spain.
The bulk of Spain is Mediterranean in character, but there are contrasts
between the wetter western regions of Extremadura and southwestern Andalucia
and the much drier Mediterranean coastlands. Driest of all is the desert
of Almeria, in the extreme southeast, where Trumpeter Finches are a particular
attraction. Dupont’s Larks are found here too but are easier to find further
north, in the Ebro valley for example. The Moustached Warbler is also one
to look for in the rather few wetlands of coastal eastern Spain.
To my mind, the easiest birding, and some of the most rewarding, is
to be had in the western Andalucian provinces and in Extremadura. The former
have world-class wetlands in the Guadalquivir estuary and many important
smaller lakes. Waterfowl of all kinds abound but the big attraction for
many birdwatchers will be the Purple Gallinules, the White-headed and Marbled
Ducks, and the Red-knobbed (Crested) Coots. A must-see site is the Laguna
de Fuentedepiedra, north of Málaga, with its thousands of breeding
Greater Flamingoes and supporting cast of Slender-billed Gulls and Gull-billed
Terns.
Both Andalucia and Extremadura offer a magnificent range of birds of
prey. Top of the list must be the Spanish Imperial Eagle, a species confined
to Spain and numbering fewer than 150 pairs. The Black-shouldered Kite
must be the most attractive local raptor and is becoming increasingly numerous,
especially in Extremadura. There are many more and it is not difficult
to see all the species in a few days, visiting well-chosen sites such as
the Strait of Gibraltar and Monfragüe in Extremadura. Here you can
enjoy Black, Griffon and Egyptian Vultures; Black and Red Kites; Montagu’s,
Marsh and Hen Harriers; Booted, Bonelli’s, Short-toed and Golden Eagles,
Ospreys, Peregrines, Hobbies, Merlins, Eleonora’s Falcons, Common and Lesser
Kestrels, Common Buzzards, Goshawks and Sparrowhawks. There is always a
possibility of coming across other vagrant raptor species as well.
The steppes of Extremadura, and of central Spain generally, offer their
own spectacle. Half of Europe’s Great Bustards live here. They are massive,
stately creatures and quite unforgettable, especially in spring when the
males are displaying. These same expanses of rough grassland are home to
Little Bustards and Stone Curlews, to flocks of Pin-tailed and Black-bellied
Sandgrouse and to a wonderful variety of larks. The song of the Calandra
Lark is a constant feature of these peaceful pastures in spring and there
are also Skylarks and Short-toed Larks in season, as well as resident Crested
and Thekla Larks, with Dupont’s Larks also in the eastern tracts, Lesser
Short-toed Larks in the driest spots and Woodlarks in the surrounding hills
for good measure.
I have mentioned the conspicuousness of small birds in Spain and indeed
no whistle-stop tour of Spain’s birds - and this is what this brief review
is - can be complete without emphasising the legions of smaller species
which provide such a wonderful backdrop to the countryside everywhere.
The songs of the Hoopoe and Bee-eater, of the Nightingale and Golden Oriole,
are as evocative of southern Spain as the sound of goat bells and the sight
of soaring Griffons. There are some wonderful species to seek out too;
Great-spotted Cuckoos, Scops Owls, Red-necked Nightjars, White-rumped Swifts,
Rollers, Black-eared and Black Wheatears, Rufous Bush Chats, White-backed
and Blue Rock Thrushes, Southern Grey Shrikes, Azure-winged Magpies, Spotless
Starlings, Spanish and Rock Sparrows and Rock Buntings will be on any birders
wish-list. There is also the challenge of sorting out the many warbler
species; Savi’s, Reed, Great Reed, Cetti’s, Moustached, Olivaceous, Melodious,
Dartford, Spectacled, Subalpine, Sardinian, Orphean and Bonelli’s Warblers
for example, as well as the delightful tiny Fan-tailed Warblers (Zitting
Cisticolas).
The warbler list includes another Spanish endemic, the Iberian Chiffchaff.
This is a hard one to pin-down since it looks much the same as the Common
Chiffchaff, which also occurs. Common Chiffchaffs are mainly winter visitors
but the Iberian birds arrive in April and leave in August. They are only
really separable by song, the Iberians having a monotonous “chiff chiff”
song instead of the two-tone “chiff chaff” of the northern species. Iberian
Chiffchaffs are local inhabitants of moist woodlands in southern and central
Spain.
If you have time to visit only one place in Spain to see birds I would
recommend the Strait of Gibraltar at migration time. This is avian commuting
on a grand scale. Pick the right time and you will be enthralled by the
great flocks of White Storks, Honey Buzzards and Black Kites, plus many
other raptors and many small birds, all congregating here to cross the
Strait to and from Africa. Seabirds too provide a spectacle as they use
the narrows on their journeys into and out of the Mediterranean. When to
visit here, or anywhere else in Spain, will require a bit of research.
Use the various site guides available, especially the excellent one written
by myself and Andy Paterson (!), and also the Internet. Come anytime though
and you are sure to find birds of interest in some spectacular landscapes.
Wild Spain is a wonderful place.
Note: Click here for books by Ernest Garcia on Spain