Jesus Garzón has always
been a man with a mission, or so it seems. One of the great Spanish field
naturalists of our time, he has worked tirelessly towards a better understanding
and conservation of Iberian wildlife. Much of his life has been dedicated
to studying and protecting such typically Spanish species as the Spanish
lynx, Imperial eagle, Black vulture, Iberian wolf, Brown bear, capercaillie,
Black stork, cranes and the Great bustard. His influence has also been
critical in the creation of national parks such as Monfragüe and Cabañeros.
In this, arguably his most ambitious project, Jesus Garzón ties
it all up with migrating, or transhumant, cattle. Damian Martin and Emilio Gil met him,
and a large flock of sheep, in the tree-studded plains between Madrid
and Extremadura.
A few weeks ago a flock of a two thousand sheep passed through the
centre of Madrid. TV news bulletins around the world covered scenes
of stopped traffic and bemused onlookers. I believe you have something
to do with this. What were those sheep doing there?
Those sheep were travelling along the old cañadas, cattle passageways,
which are the original migratory routes for the Iberian wild fauna. For
the past 4 or 5 million years herbivores have migrated along these routes
at the onset of the hot summer towards the mountains in the north and have
returned before winter towards the valleys in the south. Some eight thousand
years ago, in the Neolithic, the shepherds who domesticated the wild game
species maintained the movements of the large herds. These movements generated
a huge network of tracks which are really meadows thousands of miles long.
We have about 125,000 kilometres of these extended meadows, the cañadas,
which link up all the regions of Spain, from Andalucía to the mountains
of León, Soria or Teruel, and which have an extraordinary environmental
value. The sheep we saw the other day in Madrid were returning from the
mountains in the north.
Other than bringing attention to your campaign for the revival of
transhumance, is there any historic significance in having sheep walk through
Madrid?
Of course. The first human settlements and villages sprung up along
these cattle-ways. Shepherds were really the first traders and they dealt
in meat, milk, skins, wool and craftwork, establishing fairs and markets.
The main streets of most cities in Spain originated as markets along the
routes of migrating, or transhumant, cattle. Madrid is a good example.
Does transhumance have any value nowadays or is it solely a relic
of our recent history?
Transhumance is vital in Spain for a very evident reason: We have two
very different climate zones, the dry hot Mediterranean region and the
fresh wet climate of the mountains, specially in the Atlantic region. The
complementary grazing material found in the lowlands during the winter
and in the mountains in the summer makes transhumance the only efficient
method of using these natural resources whilst conserving our ecosystems.
Bear in mind that the Iberian landscape has adapted over millions of years
to these migrations. The wild herbivores, originally elephants, rhinos,
mammoths, bisons, elks, reindeer and a host of other now extinct species,
together with survivors unique to Spain such as the Spanish horse, the
fighting bull, the goat and the sheep - imported in the Neolithic from
Asia Minor-, all travelled down these routes. Transhumance is crucial,
therefore, for the survival of these ecosystems.
The loss of transhumance during the last century due to transportation
by train has brought about forest fires and loss of regeneration of our
native trees. You can see around us this beautiful dehesa landscape, the
park-like oak forest typical of this part of Spain, but, if you look carefully,
you will note that these oaks are all over one hundred years old. As transhumance
disappears the young oak saplings are devoured by the cattle during the
summer months. If the cattle are forced to remain in the same place
over the summer they create immense pressure on the land due to trampling
and excessive grazing - there are well documented local bird extinctions
this century, such as the Andalusian hemipode or the Demoiselle crane,
brought about by this cause. Transhumance must therefore be maintained
not only for historical and cultural reasons, but also for the sake of
the environment and of sustainable production.
So, there is a link between nature conservation and transhumance?
Absolutely. Over three million hectares of protected areas in
the southwest of the Iberian peninsula have no long term future if transhumance
is not re-established. The same is true for the north of Spain. The decrease
of free range of cattle in the north has brought about fires, loss of resources
and the extinction of species, for example the Grey partridge and the capercaillie.
There is actually a relationship between the loss of wild
animals and plants and the decline of migrating cattle?
Sure - although the relationship is not always obvious. It all starts
with the micro organisms in the soil. The lack of dung and of mechanical
trampling by the hooves of herbivores make the most basic topsoil producing
mechanisms disappear, so organic matter does not return to the ground.
Remember that the leaves of most Spanish trees and shrubs are hard and
leathery. This type of leaf is adapted to endure both the cold winters
and the hot, dry summers. If those fallen leaves are not trampled down,
they are carried away by rainwater towards the valleys, clogging up springs
and streams and causing the death of fish, frogs and newts due to an excess
of nutrients.
At another level herbivores collect plant seeds in their wool and in
their hooves which they transport for hundreds of miles, thus enabling
genetic diversity. Lack of genetic diversity endangers the rich mix of
flowers in our meadows - we have up to forty species of flowering grasses
per square metre, one of the highest densities in the world. There
is a knock-on effect for insects, such as butterflies, beetles, ants or
bumblebees which feed upon these flowers. If you add to this the adverse
effect of summer overgrazing you begin to see how this primary production
affects insect life and the animals which prey on them. Thus we get a decline
of lizards and snakes - once very common in Spain. The chain of events
continues. If these prey species disappear, the birds that feed on them
also decrease: Red kites, Booted eagles or Short toed eagles. The animals
which live in the long grass, such as rabbits, hares, quail or partridges,
are also affected as their cover diminishes. Ultimately the highest members
of the food chain, such as Spanish lynx, Imperial eagles, vultures, wolves
or bears, are all affected by the disappearance of transhumance.
It is commonly thought that nature is best left to itself and that
human intervention necessarily brings about a decline in natural diversity.
Do you disagree?
Yes, this is totally false. Man is part of nature. Man of Atapuerca,
for example, was already interacting with the local environment eight hundred
thousand years ago. The effect of man on these ecosystems has shaped the
evolution of wildlife which is well adapted to his presence, at least were
traditional intervention is concerned. If you abandon a piece of land and
allow it to grow truly "wild", biodiversity diminishes. This is something
quite evident. In these meadows there are, as I said earlier, some 40 grass
species per square metre. If grazing is abandoned the larger, more robust
grasses are favoured, stifling the rest. Eventually plants like rosemary
and lavender will take over, to be displaced later by broom and other shrubs
and trees. As you can see the landscape becomes increasingly less
diverse.
Is it true that even the critically endangered Spanish lynx is affected
by the decline in transhumance?
Of course! Think about it... What is the basic food for the Spanish
lynx? Rabbits. How does it hunt them? By sight - it has to spot them first,
then stalk them and then catch them by pouncing. This is not possible unless
you have open clearings. What do rabbits eat? Grass. In an area abandoned
by agriculture and livestock everything eventually turns to dense shrub
with branches three to five metres high, well out of the reach of rabbits.
This evergreen vegetation, typical of Spain, effectively blocks out sunlight
throughout the year and prevents the growth of grass. So, where do rabbits
find food? In the meadows or on the edge of cultivated fields. If the meadows
disappear, so do the rabbits. Additionally rabbits have the problem of
finding the right areas for making their burrows. For the most part Spain
is covered in hard quartz, granite or slate based soils where rabbits
have a difficult time burrowing. Usually they seek out softer ground in
smallholdings with olive groves or vegetable gardens which are, in turn,
dependent on the presence of cattle. In the mountain areas of Spain where
you find these smallholdings, people use agriculture to complement their
basic produce which comes from their goats, sheep or cows. So, we see how
the diversity created by man enables the survival of rabbits or partridges
which the lynx preys upon. If man is forced to become sedentary he has
to give up his original lifestyle: He cannot afford the extra costs of
feeding cattle throughout the year on resources which are only seasonally
available.
Can you give an example of an area where the Spanish lynx has disappeared
for these reasons?
There are vast expanses of Sierra Morena, Montes de Toledo and Sistema
Central which have been allowed to go "back to nature" in the last twenty
or thirty years to favour fenced-in hunting preserves for deer and wild
boar. These used to be inhabited by goat herders and transhumant cattle
and they supported high densities of Spanish lynx, with populations of
several thousands. Now, the lynx population has collapsed. Apparently the
sierras are wilder than ever, full of masses of Holm and Cork oak and with
huge thickets of strawberry trees and impenetrable swathes of cistus and
heather. But the rabbits and partridges are all gone, and the lynx has
followed. There are emblematic national parks like Cabañeros, in
the heart of prime lynx country in the Montes de Toledo, where there hasn't
been a single lynx sighting in ten years. The only way to bring back the
mosaic of diverse habitats which favours animals like the Spanish lynx
is to reintroduce traditional cattle moving practices.
You mean, Spain is actually becoming less wild as people move out
of the picture?
That's right. We shouldn't really try to reinvent things in the twenty
first century. Up to a 100 or 50 years ago there was an incredible natural
diversity in the Iberian peninsula which is well documented. Chapman and
Buck described a country steeped in a greater wilderness than was
known anywhere else in Europe. But of course this wilderness included man.
If you leaf through the illustrations in their books, people are in evidence
everywhere: Goat herds, smallholdings etc. It was precisely in those areas
associated with man where you found healthy populations of Imperial eagle,
Black vulture, Spanish lynx, Great bustards, and, of course, cranes.
Do cranes use the cañadas also?
If you take a look at this cañada where we stand now you are
looking down the natural migratory route for wintering cranes to and from
Extremadura - there was a big flock feeding in front of the sheep only
yesterday. The cranes which fly between Extremadura and Portugal and Gallocanta,
travel along this very line, which joins up the wintering grounds in La
Serena - with up to fifty thousand cranes - with the Navalcán and
Rosarito reservoirs and also with the Pardo reserve, north of Madrid. From
there, cranes move onto Gallocanta and fly up to the Pyrenees following
the route of another cañada which passes through Zaragoza.
What is the current state of transhumance in Spain right now? Is
anyone promoting it aside from your organization?
There are roughly one million transhumant heads of cattle in Spain today,
which represent about three per cent of the total. It has to be said, though,
that most of this transhumance is short distance, with herds travelling
no more than about a week or so along a distance of fifty to one hundred
kilometres between valleys and nearby mountains. Long distance transhumance
disappeared completely about half a century ago. Then, in 1993, we
started to bring it back again via our organisation, “Trashumancia y Naturaleza”.
We wanted to prove that it was still viable. Nobody believed it was still
possible to leave Badajoz, in Extremadura, with three thousand sheep and
arrive in León or Soria, in northern Spain, without any problem.
We have demonstrated that it is possible and also that it is important
from a social, economic and environmental point of view. What remains is
public financing via the environmental and agricultural aid programmes
to allow the revitalisation of the great network of cattle pathways in
Spain. This cañada which we are standing on looks very attractive
but it is severely lacking, for example, in watering holes. Water is crucial
both for the cattle and for the local and migrating fauna. All we ask is
for a reinstatement of something which was in existence only a few decades
ago.
You have pointed out that the transhumant cattle routes go through
some of Spain’s most interesting natural areas. Can they be used by walkers
or other wildlife enthusiasts?
Of course. Non-traditional uses which are compatible with the conservation
of the cañadas are actually covered by a law which came out in 1995
and which specifically allows complementary activities such as walking,
cycling and horse riding. The same law forbids intrusive uses, such
as motor vehicles not associated to agricultural uses or transhumance.
Many people see the reinstatement of transhumance as a romantic but
impractical notion. Some would contend that you can keep the old cattle
routes by turning them over to new uses, such as ecotourism. Do you agree?
Without transhumance the cattle routes will disappear. Remember that
cañadas are not tracks, they are elongated meadows up to seventy
five metres wide. Their survival depends on grazing and fertilising with
cattle dung. These meadows have no use for groups of cyclists or walkers
with backpacks and cameras if they don’t graze and provide dung as they
travel!
The cañadas are meadows thousands of miles long which join up
all the different ecosystems they cross. Herbivores provide transport for
plants along these routes but, as we have seen, animals, such as cranes,
lynx or wolves, also need to travel along them. Some of our great nature
reserves, such as Picos de Europa, Cabañeros or Doñana have
no future if they are isolated. They will become smaller and smaller, and
more and more degraded. Visitor numbers will increase and they will inevitably
become islands with a dwindling genetic diversity. Lynx and Imperial eagles,
for instance, are actually becoming extinct in Doñana for these
very reasons. The solution, of course, are the old cañadas which
linked Doñana with the Sierra de Huelva and then with the lowlands
of La Serena, which in turn join up with the Gredos mountains and with
the agricultural steppes of northern Castille such as Villafáfila
and then Somiedo or Sanabria in the northwest. Interestingly, these greenways
are precisely what the European Union is proposing with the Natura 2000
network programme, which envisages natural corridors joining Finland with
Gibraltar. Other countries will have to spend huge amounts of money to
create these corridors but we already have them! All we have to do is restore
them and conserve them.
Would the restoration of the old cattle routes be an expensive exercise?
Not really. Most of the adverse effects on the transhumant cattle routes
have been caused by private individuals who have built upon them or fenced
them off to annex them to their estates. These individuals should be fined
- they have stolen something which doesn't belong to them - and the money
can then be used to restore the old routes or, better still, to buy land
in the area which may be even more suitable for the purpose. There is little
point in knocking a building down and having the cattle crossing over a
pile of rubble. We need to be creative and practical.
What about cañadas which cross through towns, for example
Madrid?
The simplest solution is to create suburban parks which double up as
transhumant cattle routes. Vast investments are being made right now in
Madrid for suburban parks. Why not turn them into "green ring-roads" which
can easily double up as public parks? To give you an example, we spent
three days in the Casa de Campo park, just outside Madrid on our way down
here a few weeks ago. The effect of our sheep was entirely beneficial -
they not only provided manure but also cropped the long grass which would
otherwise become a fire hazard in the summer. I recall the recent news
on TV about Prince Charles opening a great new greenway in London for walkers
and for locals to exercise their dogs on. If they can do it so that people
can walk their dogs surely it is even more crucial in this country where,
not only is an important social service being provided, but, without extra
investment, the great north-south cattle routes are kept open. Think also,
what a bonus it would be if the inhabitants of great cities, like Madrid,
could take the tube to the outskirts and step out onto a vast meadow along
which they could walk, horse-ride or cycle right up into the mountains
without seeing a single car.
So, would you say transhumance is economically viable on its own
or is it up to society as a whole to keep it alive?
Profitability is a very relative term. Intensive cattle production in
Europe is dependent on the importation of cheap fodder from third world
countries, for example soybean flower from the Brazilian rainforest, cereal
from Egypt or fish meal from Peru’s depleted seas. We live in a society
which is destroying the planet. The only way in which food production in
advanced societies such as ours can become economically and environmentally
viable is to return to solutions which are not costly in terms of energy,
i.e. transport. Further we should not be importing valuable resources
from the third world to feed our cattle. These countries could well use
these resources to feed themselves without destroying their own environment.
An additional problem derived from our intensive cattle management practices
is the poor quality of end products, as mad cow disease and the discovery
of dioxins in pigs and poultry has recently proved. The apparent profitability,
therefore, of intensive cattle management in Europe is a dangerous fallacy.
Transhumance is proposed as a great alternative for the production of
quality meat and milk, which is not dependent on importation of cattle
feed. It has low energy costs - transhumant cattle walks at a gentle
2 km/hour- and, because the cattle spreads fertility along its path,
we avoid the organic pollution caused by static herds. Transhumance contributes
to the conservation of nature, culture and traditions and gives us excellent
products such as prime meat and cheese, skins or the famous merino wool.
And all this without applying pressure on third world countries.
Is it true that developing countries with nomad traditions have shown
interest in the resurgence of transhumance in Spain?
I believe we have an important role to play in helping other countries
keep their cattle migrating traditions alive. The recent annual passage
of our flock of sheep through Madrid has caused great international publicity
for our cause. This in turn has made the nomad peoples of countries like
Kenya, Tanzania, Nepal, Bhutan, India and Mongolia start to follow our
activities very closely. Last year we hosted an international congress
for nomad and transhumant shepherds, a community of over fifty million
people worldwide. We have managed to get the Ministry of Environment to
translate our laws, which go back to the twelfth century, into French and
English so that other countries can apply them. Spain, incidentally, is
the only country with an active legislation which protects transhumance.
Preserving traditional cattle migration into the twenty first century gives
us, as a European Union country, a unique opportunity to set an example
to the world of environmental and cultural sensitivity.
How can a visitor find out where the old Spanish cattle routes are?
Are they marked on maps? Where is it still possible to see transhumance
in action?
You can find the routes on the 1:50000 maps issued by the Instituto
Cartográfico Nacional – they are available in most good bookshops
in Spain. These maps, specially the older editions, all show the cañadas.
It is not easy these days to coincide with actual herds moving along them,
although if you make your visit during the months of June or October, when
cattle are moving up or down from the mountains, this improves your chances.
The best thing if you want to see transhumance is to get in touch with
the cattle owners to find out when they will start travelling. Tact and
common sense should of course prevail if you wish to travel with transhumant
cattle. Don't take a dog, be self-sufficient, and treat the cattle with
due respect. Some cattle can actually be quite dangerous, for instance
the fighting bulls and cows which still move between Jaen and Teruel. Most
problems are easily avoidable by talking to the shepherds, seeking their
permission to accompany them, and asking for behaviour guidelines.
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Trashumancia y Naturaleza is an NGO founded by Jesus Garzón.
It is currently the only organisation in Spain devoted entirely to keeping
transhumance alive. It provides help to any livestock owner who wishes
to move cattle along the traditional cañadas by supplying advice
and practical hands-on support in the form of specialised shepherds, trained
dogs and tame leading animals. It costs Trashumancia y Naturaleza sixty
thousand euros to help a flock of two thousand sheep to make the typical
five-month journey. If you would like to contribute to these costs and
promote the revival of Spanish transhumance you can send you donation to
Account no. 2066 0025 93 0200018187, Caja Cantabria in Cabezón de
la Sal (Cantabria, Spain). Contact details for Trashumancia y Naturaleza
are: Box 33, Cabezón de la Sal, 35500 Cantabria, Spain. Tel. 00
34 609209095. Fax. 00 34 942 706369. Email tronera@nodo50.org