On first visits to The Alpujarra, nearly always
in winter, I was puzzled to be told that the numerous helipad-like circles
of flat stones to be seen were in fact threshing floors. I accepted the
information, doubtfully; after all where were the wheat fields, the
flat land and the young growths of cereal? I have never seen a threshing
floor in England and still do not know if there is any similarity. Perhaps
the period of England's threshing is too far back in her past for any to
remain, perhaps they are all buried under the new milking parlour. I hope
these in Spain do not all suffer that fate; they are such beautiful, simple
yet intricate, functional structures, usually enhanced by their spectacular
locations. They are so numerous that it is hard to imagine their disappearance
but certainly their slow deterioration is a fact now that the number
in use is minimal. They deserve recognition as historical
sites, and preservation.
Imagine a 10 or 15 metre diameter stone-paved area half a days walk
from the nearest modern day dwelling, but usually within sight of a ruin
to which it belongs. It is situated on the shoulder of a mountain slope
which now supports nothing but scrub. It is not very steep land but steep
enough for the constructor to have needed to construct a one or two
metre high supporting embankment under the lower lip and an equally
deep excavation at the upper, in order to achieve a level result.
In a different location, say a Cotswold village or Watford town park, one
would say it was destined to have a maypole centred on it, or a playground
roundabout. The term threshing floor is really a misnomer, a quirk of dictionary
translation. The Spanish era is a winnowing platform. No Spaniard in his
right mind, and the noble peasant almost invariably is in his right mind,
would site a threshing floor in an inconvenient spot, a mule trip
away from fields and farm. No, these are winnowing areas and so had to
be sited in the place on the owners land that most often caught the summer
winds.
Smaller eras exist, no more than a patio-like drying area at the side
of a tiny, countryside living-room-cum-tool-shed, casa de campo. These
areas often lack the conformity of shape that the builders of the true
eras were able to create. The casa de campo would be a siesta spot if near
to the village, an over night or over summer, temporary dwelling for the
worker and possibly his family while they had tasks to perform on the land.
The drying area would receive crops of maize, beans or whatever had to
be dried to rock like consistency for keeping through the winter as animal
fodder or raw material for potajes or cazuelas.
As a musing rambler, or rambling muser, as on paper so too in boots,
I do not resist the magnetism of the era and hope to meet the ghost of
the builder, complement him and give him the tiny bit of encouragement
I know he barely needs, to tell me all about it.
Working from a central point, obvious from the pattern of the stones,
the builder was able to form a perfect circle from flat slabs, the largest
of which form a circumference of inclined slabs, making a raised
lip to aid retention of the crop on the surface. The embankment and excavation
are formed and supported by dry stone walling, the stones and rocks bedded
into each other with earth. The surface itself radiates from a central
point making patterns dependent on the builder's whim and the rock available.
Where large flat slabs are available so much the better to make a smooth
working surface. Heavy slabs looking like '4 man stones' would be more
stable and require less maintenance. Some builders finding themselves in
a limestone area with fragmented roundish rock to deal with had a longer
job. Time not being a great issue they seem to have made a virtue of the
circumstance by making more intricate patterns, the pride in the creation
of these monochrome mosaics being visible, tangible and much appreciated
by this particular passer by.
In some areas there are both round and oblong eras, the reason for which
I have yet to confirm. I suspect two different methods of threshing and
perhaps this is also associated with different ranges of crops; since both
types are seen alongside each other it is still rather intriguing. The
structure is as sound as it ever was; unmoved in the time it has taken
for its owners house to crumble completely. Some shapes and structures
it seems were just meant to be right: the eras are such a part and parcel
of the landscape they might have grown; having the appearance, and charm
of a product of nature. They stem from a period, I suppose, when man was
more a part of nature and his structures and life style conformed with
it; the era seems to embody an empathy between man and environment.
The era from which I now muse is typical. Its siting, like nearly all
its brothers incidentally provides a splendid view which combines with
emotions exuding from the polished rocks into an experience and not simply
a view. It is on the shoulder of a hill looking left and right into
two valleys which join below. The valley continues down and down through
woods of Chestnut and Oak, widening, twisting out of sight between sierras,
but shortly to reach the sea. Turning to face uphill, the southern slopes
of the Sierra Nevada, which comprise The Alpujarra, reach up, a day's walk
more, to the snowy ridge and the bluest of skies. All this set to the music
of cow bells and the tumbling water in one of the barrancos. Winds or breezes
passing up and down the valleys in the diurnal rhythm of the mountains
would offer a good chance of winnowing time be it day, night, light
or dark. Competition for wind time in the relatively short period of time
available would have been intense. One can almost sense the frenzy of activity
from the huge numbers of eras and their close proximity, at least one per
owner; in matters of water and harvest, neighbourliness probably
did not overflow.
This era, like the majority found in The Alpujarra, is of a type of micacious
rock which has a natural shine, but added to this is a polished smoothness
created by centuries of use. It is a black rock and easily absorbs heat
from the sun, providing a warm resting place. Where previously the sweat
ran freely during daytime threshing and the fingers chilled from midnight
winnowing, now the black stones provide a comfortably warm picnic spot
for winter walkers. For much of the year there is the feel of snow in the
air dropping from these mountains, although they are within sight of the
mediterranean. In selecting my lunch spot, I have usually to walk around
the circumference of the era; compulsive behaviour or magic force? I don't
know. I am looking for the best stone on which to sit around the edge but
first I am inevitably drawn like a dying planet to its sun, to the centre
of the universe from where our builder started, and there I rest, eat,
drink and dribble, slightly madly.
Eras can do funny things to you, as you may have already noticed; despite
their agricultural function they have had other uses which have embedded
themselves in mythology. However you define a witch, one supposes that
they existed, needed somewhere to meet, dance and launch from. The era
has attributes lending itself to all this: the isolation, shape, and wind
have obviously suited the occult through the ages and here up to the present
generation of grandparents, they know who the witch is even if they have
never actually seen her fly from the era. It is strange how one occasionally
sees ladies who are physically identical to the caricatures of witches
in children's book illustrations, so ideal are they for the role that I
have barely been able to resist the temptation to stop one of them to engage
in some pretext of a conversation to see what transpires. It would probably
produce nothing; on the one occasion I determined to stop the car on passing
one of my witches, and engage in conversation; too late, on looking for
her in the mirror she had disappeared.
Note: This article by Jeremy Rabjohns is reproduced with the permission of
www.crownsys.co.uk/capil2002 where it first appeared, associated with
many images of The Alpujarra.